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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.